Boston Magazine reports on the effort by the owners of Tres Gatos and the Centre Street Cafe to try to increase the pay of kitchen workers, who don't get tips.
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Why Not Simply Raise Prices By 3% Instead Of An Extra Added Fee?
By Elmer
Mon, 11/30/2015 - 11:38pm
I don't know much about these
By fox_orian
Mon, 11/30/2015 - 11:46pm
I don't know much about these places so I don't know if their prices lowball other nearby restaurants... but if I had to guess it's so that their menu prices don't get higher to detract from sales. What I wonder is, does a mandatory 3% fee help to cover people who never tip or will people tip less / less often now that there's a mandatory fee? (I feel like there's statistics behind this somewhere.)
I don't like fees
By BostonDog
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 9:25am
So I'd suck it up and pay $0.50 more per item if I liked the food. But if you start tacking on required fees I'll assume you're becoming Verizon. That leaves a bad taste in my mouth, so to speak.
I don't shop at businesses which add fees. The cost of an item should be what you pay.
You have never worked in a
By ER
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 5:40pm
You have never worked in a restaurant.
It is some of the hardest work out there. You have no idea.
I've worked in a restaurant.
By Bussed Boy
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 12:31am
granted, not in the kitchen. I was a bus boy who got a share of the tips. But I agree with Boston Dog. The fee is silly.
Kitchen workers bust their butts for low pay. They are also often illegal labor. Enforce the employment laws and the pay of restaurant workers as well as Mitt Romney's landscapers will automatically increase.
ask our kitchen guys
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 3:13pm
Well, ask our kitchen crew if they think the fee is silly. We were able to give them a raise right away. And that includes our dishwashers.
Yeah, illegal labor is a big issue in restaurants, but enforcing labor laws isn't the magic bullet that's going to solve low kitchen wages. The money isn't just magically going to appear. And in our letter, we explained why we think the admin fee is a better solution than just raising prices.
raising menu prices vs hospitality fee
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 11:37am
We are very careful about setting our menu prices and we believe we do so fairly, acknowledging the fact that we buy only high quality ingredients (and yes, buying from small local farms costs more). We explained this in detail in our open letter to the community (see our websites or the back of our menus), but for the purpose of paying kitchen staff more, raising menu prices is not effective. The hospitality admin fee goes directly to the kitchen, so %-wise effect on our guests is small but effect on kitchen pay is immediate and large.
Pricing...
By fairlee76
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 11:54am
Their prices are higher than most other nearby restaurants, but they also serve pretty unique menus for Jamaica Plain.
I think the "look" associated with adding fees will turn some people off to these places, though probably not all that many.
I will absolutely tip less to account for the three percent fee. 17 percent for the bar staff and 3 percent for the back of the house staff.
fairlee, what is the logic behind tipping less?
By bibliotequetress
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:03pm
If the prices had simply increased 3%, you would end up tipping the waiter (slightly) more, reflecting the overall increase in your bill.
The waitstaff still is being paid less than the kitchen staff. I don't know what the policy is at Tres Gatos, but by law, they do not have to pay the service staff more than $3.00/hour.
While I applaud paying the back of the house more, and doing it in a way that rewards the kitchen workers during the back-breakingly busy shifts, I don't see how it justifies shorting the waitstaff.
Partially an emotional reaction...
By fairlee76
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 9:43am
My response was partially emotional but, with a little more time to think about it, I probably will end up keeping my overall tip percentage at 20 percent. FOH staff at TG is fantastic. But a typical outing there for me involves spending about $70 for wine and a few shared small plates. Not sure what the true cost of my food and drink is to the restaurant, but I am pretty sure (in this case at least) it is nowhere near $70. I'll still tip at least $14, but that amount will be split between the new BOH gratuity and the customary FOH gratuity.
The bottom line for me is that I know this group has done very well with these restaurants and I assume they could afford to share more of their profits with their staff. By choosing to pass this cost on to the consumer in such a public, self-congratulatory manner (we saw a problem and we're going to have you address it for us!), they are going to make some of us re-think where we dine.
Thanks for the response.
By bibliotequetres...
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 5:51pm
Fair enough. You have some good points.
Menu prices
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 11:50am
Menu prices should reflect the quality of the ingredients and the amount of labor going into each dish. From the start, the Tres Gatos and Centre Street Cafe teams made the commitment to buy only high quality ingredients, to source from local farms and small vendors whenever possible, and to make most of what we serve in house, from scratch. We could choose to use lesser ingredients and to make fewer dishes from scratch in order to lower menu prices (as many other restaurants do), but we don't want to do that. We are very proud of our chefs and cooks and the food that they prepare every day.
Regarding tipping, we know that some guests will not change their habits (will continue to tip 20% or so on the total) with the new fee, and we also know that some will deduct the 3% hospitality fee from the total, and that's okay. Fortunately, we're lucky to work with amazing servers and bartenders who are behind this effort and who recognize that some guests may lower their tip slightly in response to the fee. We don't want to do away with tipping because we don't want to take that prerogative away from guests.
FTFY
By Alissa
Tue, 12/08/2015 - 11:10pm
"We don't want to do away with tipping because we want to continue to reap the benefits of having our guests pay our waitstaff for us."
FTFY
By Alissa
Tue, 12/08/2015 - 11:10pm
"We don't want to do away with tipping because we want to continue to reap the benefits of having our guests pay our waitstaff for us."
Feel-good, mostly
By Bob Leponge
Mon, 11/30/2015 - 11:47pm
I find it hard to believe that the market even notices 3% - that would turn a $12 dish into a $12.36 dish. But... calling it out as being used to fund better pay for the back of the house, probably makes people feel better about paying it.
So why not..
By BostonDog
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 9:27am
So why not raise the price of the items and then include a disclaimer at the bottom saying the menu price reflects the cost of paying the back of house a living wage?
How do we know they didn't simultaneously cut the cook's hourly wages by 3% and tell them the customers will be making up the difference?
two different ways to raise prices
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 11:59am
Thanks for your comment, Bob, and it's a great illustration of the issue here. We chose 3% because it is only pennies on the dollar, but because it goes directly to the kitchen, it doesn't get allocated among all the other costs that the restaurant bears so it has a sizable effect. And immediate: both kitchen crews got raises yesterday because of the new hospitality admin fee, and as owners who have deep respect for the work they do, that makes us happy.
Exactly. This was a
By WeLivetoServe
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 2:09pm
Exactly. This was a calculation targeted to give specific across the board raises, so how do we implement 3% and not have the prices look screwy? Also, the whole point of raising prices in this manner is that when other costs go up in the future and we need to cover them, both tipped and non-tipped employees will see their wages move up in tandem. There is a core issue here that I know is not familiar to people, and it is extremely difficult to find a solution that works and is fair to 2 entirely different types of employees, with completely different sets of legal rules.. It's not a simple problem, and this policy is the reult of almost 4 years of searching for a the most streamlined approach that addresses the core issue and has the greatest chance of success.. We have handed out raises and allowed that to come from the bottom line right up until the business becomes unsustainable and threatens to destroy the 45 jobs that we are responsible for, not to mention our own livelihoods and the obligations to banks and investores and our mission in the community.. If it were an easy solution no one would be talking about it or hearing about it and we wouldn't be exposing the business to this enormous risk.. yet in the restaurant industry it is front and center and a major source of dialogue.. It is a complicated issue that we are glad to talk about in detail, but if the response to our sincere attempts is "we don't believe you and we think you are lying" then there isn't a whole lot of room for us to try and share the vision.. Our teams are 100% behind us and we can only hope that our guests and community will choose to support us as well. It's scary.
they did that, and cut the portion sizes in half, too
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 12:13am
When they gentrified the hell out of the place, they jacked prices and cut portion sizes among many other changes. It basically has no resemblance to the old place; they mostly kept the name so that people wouldn't scream blue-bloody-murder about them killing off the old place and putting in a south-end wannabe restaurant.
So yeah, this is just puffery- their profit margin has shot up compared to the old menu. If they wanted to, they could have easily given 3% more to the kitchen staff all on their own, but that'd cut into their profits, and we can't have that. So a surprise hidden fee. We'll see what the state thinks of listing prices; in the meantime, I encourage everyone to tip so that your bill is effectively the menu price, plus tax and 20% tip.
It's a whole new restaurant,
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 6:58am
It's a whole new restaurant, just the same name. It's not the same product, so costs aren't the same. Saying they "jacked up the prices" implies that they took the same ingredients, menu, etc. and just raised the prices. It's apples and oranges. Not all restaurants have the same overhead. I doubt their profit margin is much different at all.
Centre Street Cafe
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 12:12pm
Thanks anon for the comment, and clarification. It's absolutely not the same restaurant. My partner and I loved the previous Cafe, and were friends with the owner, but our intention was not to redo the look and reopen with a similar restaurant. We share many of Felicia's values (such as sourcing as much as possible from Stillman's and other local farms), and we loved the idea of continuing her diner-style weekend brunch, but our goal was to introduce an entirely new dinner menu (Italian), and we were lucky enough to attract one of Boston's top chefs, Brian Rae, to execute it.
Referring back to some of my earlier posts on this thread about menu prices: we price our dishes at the Cafe as competitively as possible, but it's important to point out that Brian's crew makes everything, including the pasta, from scratch. We make our doughnuts from scratch, we make our dinner bread from scratch. We use the highest quality ingredients. So anon is right, the difference in overhead, the cost of goods, etc varies a lot from restaurant to restaurant, and a whole host of factors need to be taken into account when evaluating whether a place's prices are reasonable or not.
And finally, profit margin: for restaurants in general, it is razor thin. For restaurants that choose to buy high quality ingredients and make everything from scratch, it is especially challenging. Our margins are in the mid single digits, meaning we have very little cushion during slow times, such as winter.
so what do you pay BOH
By FootPad
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 12:30pm
Hi,
What do you pay BOH? What do you estimate FOH makes? I don't think most comments and reactions to your open letter disagree that restaurant work can be challenging both in terms of labor and profit. It also sounds like the majority enjoy the food and service at Tres Gatos. What most people are reacting to is that instead of just honestly communicating the pay discrepancy, you're asking the customers to plan on adding 3% (or 7%) to every receipt to pay for BOH - how do we know what this amount boils down to for the BOH? I think you should just pay your BOH staff what you need to (sounds like 3% of sales is what you need to do to make them whole) and factor that into the menu prices. $8 for potatoes tapas becomes $8.25 with the $0.25 allocated to BOH pay.
Instead of "just raising our
By WeLivetoServe
Thu, 12/03/2015 - 12:31am
Instead of "just raising our prices" we are doing so in a way that allows us to make a fundamental change in the industry. We already pay our staff more than we "need to" by industry standards and have not suffered the same turnover and talent issues as other restaurants. Treating our team with deep respect is what makes this possible. This isn't a problem in our restaurants, it's a problem in our industry. The "smart" thing for us as owners would be to do nothing. Smart and short-sighted. Once you know there is a problem how long should you wait before you do something about it? Even if you're succeeding is it worth it? But that isn't the right thing to do. I'm sorry if people find this corny but we are on a mission to make a difference. Haters are gonna hate, and we'll just keep answering. It's the right thing to do. Change is hard, also necessary and inevitable. If you know anyone else involved at the operations level with restaurants, I think you should bring this up with them. They may disagree with the solution but there's no way they disagree about the problem.
Oh waaahh.
By Sally
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 7:14am
You really think the profits are just so massive on a small restaurant? Even a small restaurant group? Newsflash--running a restaurant isn't exactly the kind of thing you take up after your investment banking gig falls through. And sorry, but I don't think the grade of "gentrification" is quite as steep as you claim. CSC has always been a lovely place but IMO having a really good Italian place where I can go occasionally as a treat (we've had several really wonderful meals there) is preferable to having a spot where I'd have to stand in line for twenty minutes for a biscuit and omelet I could make at home. Really delicious and unpretentious food--no whiff of South Endery that I can detect.
Never been to CSC,
By boo_urns
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 12:15pm
But I wouldn't put it past Tres Gatos. I like the restaurant, but it's at least a touch "foodie".
To the topic at hand, wouldn't the line item for the fee be easily to separate out into raising wages for the cooks/kitchen staff? If you're just raising prices on the food/beverage, you're just factoring in more for tip, as your 20% will be affected by the higher product prices.
Really?
By fairlee76
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 5:38pm
TG absolutely fits in with a lot of the places I assume you classify as "South Endery." Toro most notably. I love the place but let's not act as though TG would have survived in JP 15 years ago, before it started it's transition to South End by the Arbs.
JP and gentrification
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 2:39pm
I've worked and/or lived in JP for over twenty years, and with luck I'll live and work here another twenty more. JP has changed a lot since I moved to Boston, and will continue to (that's good, neighborhoods that don't change die). Most of our employees live in JP, so we as restaurant owners are as concerned about the consequences of gentrification as anyone else in the community. The mission of our restaurants is not to contribute to gentrification, it's to provide a great place to work, and eat, for local residents. We fully understand that our style, menus, playlists, etc are not for everyone, and that's okay.
What's not that okay is spreading misinformation with negative intent on-line. Believe me, our profit margin has not "shot up," and we could not "easily have given 3% more to the kitchen staff all on (our) own." Do your homework, and don't make statements you can't support.
They answered this question
By eherot
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 1:18am
They answered this question in a Tweet (https://twitter.com/centrestcafe/status/6714639700...) but basically it amounts to this:
The stated goal of the fee is not to raise all wages, but to reduce the gap between the front-of-house wages and the back-of-house wages. If they were to just raise prices overall, the front-of-house wages, which are mainly tips, would also increase, undermining the whole point of the operation.
My question to them, which they only sort of answered, is if they're so upset by the disparity that the tipping system imposes on their workers, why not do away with tips altogether? I'm with Bob below in that I think mandatory "fees" are intellectually dishonest. If they want back-of-house workers to be paid better, they should just get rid of tips completely, pay everyone what Tres Gatos thinks they're worth, and be done with it.
Well it's a step toward that
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 5:15am
Well it's a step toward that direction. That may just be too big a shift at once. You dont't want to completely flip everything on your front of house staff so quickly.
Divide Tips
By BostonDog
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 9:52am
So make the FOH divide the tips with BOH and say so on the menu. Raise prices too if you need to bump up the amount collected by tips. (And also pay BOH better.)
Any way you look at it this fee sounds scummy.
That is completely illegal.
By WeLivetoServe
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 4:25pm
That is completely illegal. Raising prices alone is not a long-term solution, if it were none of this would be an issue.
We as owners, our staff, our guests, many other commentators and industry and personal role models, have managed to find ways to look at this and have it not sound "scummy." It's not an easy problem, there isn't an easy solution, and I'm sorry you find our best attempt to fix to be so.
Thank you for reading some of
By WeLivetoServe
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 4:21pm
Thank you for reading some of the other sources and obviously also giving them some thoughtful consideration. Regarding doing away with tipping, we think it is too large and emtional of an issue for servers and guests alike to try and confront and dismantle. There is a practicality here to try and chart a course that makes a financial difference for our kitchen crew but does create an inordinate amount of risk and put us out of business. You can see what this small fee has incited already, we have an obligation to protect the jobs of our team, the local events and charities we support, the vendors we buy from, and the people who loaned us their hard- earned savings so that we could even exist. I consider it practical, others will think it cowardly.. Judging from a lot of comments here, I think getting called a coward is relatively low on the scale of insults that will be lodged against us..
Everywhere I have worked has
By anon
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 4:46pm
Everywhere I have worked has had a tip pooling arrangements.
Front of House "tipped out" Back of House.
What was different was who was included in BOH - bus person, dishwasher, line cook, chef etc.. and percent of the night's tips went to back of the house.
re: Everywhere I have worked has...
By WeLivetoServe
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 9:00pm
Please do not mention any of the restaurants that you worked at! Tip pools can legally only include tipped employees such as servers, bartenders, bussers, runners.. Chefs, cooks, managers, dishwashers cannot be part of the pool.. Servers can of course voluntary hand over money if they decide to, but it absolutely cannot be part of a tip pool or controlled or dictated by the restaurant in any way.
Not a good idea for many reasons
By Bob Leponge
Mon, 11/30/2015 - 11:44pm
For one thing, cost-based pricing is one of the "five deadly business sins." You set your prices according to market conditions. You pay your back of the house staff according to either market conditions, or more, as your conscience dictates. One doesn't really have anything to do with the other.
For another, unbundling is intellectually dishonest. If it isn't something that the customer can choose whether or not to buy, it shouldn't appear as a separate line on the bill; it should be rolled into the price. Instead of adding a 3% "back of the house decent wages" surcharge, a 1% cost-of-energy surcharge, a 0.5% regulatory compliance surcharge, and a 2% environmental surcharge to recover the cost of trash recycling and water/sewer bills, just raise the prices by 7.5%.
http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748704204...
That doesn't really apply
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 5:19am
That doesn't really apply here. That's about business in general, not the unique situation restaurants are in. The problem is the current market wage for back of house mixed with our tipping system is unsustainable long term.
There's nothing unique about restaurants
By merlinmurph
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 7:50am
Restaurants aren't unique. To put it another way, every business is unique. Don't use "unique" to justify a bad way of doing things.
Can you think of other types of businesses
By Sally
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:25am
that face this kind of conundrum?
with fees, not tips, sure.
By Astute Observer
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 2:07pm
Someone mentioned a comparison with Verizon in a post above. I agree.
Any utility bill. Gas, Cable, etc. all have a shitload of stupidassed fees added on. I don't want restaurants to follow that model.
There's also FedEx, which (last I checked, admittedly a while ago) still has a goddamn fuel surcharge despite fuel prices taking a nosedive.
Erm...
By Sally
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 3:38pm
Not remotely the same unless your cable guy gets paid in tips every time he shows up at your house while the guy who answers the 800 number gets $15 an hour.
The FedEx and UPS
By roadman
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 4:58pm
"fuel charges" have nothing to do with fuel costs - they're actually just surcharges for delivering to residental addresses instead of businesses (one of the reasons I have packages delevered to my office). But I'm sure some PR hack in Marketing told them to call it a fuel charge instead.
Hey Boss
By BostonDog
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 5:02pm
"I figured out how we can make 10% more revenue without raising our advertised!"
Give how cheap is nowadays I think UPS/Fedex should be including a "fuel discount" equal to the peak of the surcharge.
Restaurants are unique. Name
By Kinopio
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 10:04am
Restaurants are unique. Name another type of business where half the employees are paid by the hour and the other half are paid by tips.
I'm not saying it is a good system. You can get better service in some other countries where people don't tip. We should do away with this dumb tipping system and just pay all employees a decent wage.
To put a fine point on it...
By UHubFan
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 11:12am
name another business where half the employees are paid by the business and the other half are paid directly by the customers.
Umm, any contractor
By BostonDog
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 5:08pm
Generally contractors break out material and labor costs even if the installer works directly for the supplier.
Thank you. Very apt and
By WeLivetoServe
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 4:30pm
Thank you. Very apt and succinct. We don't expect everyone to support us or even take the time to understand. For those that do, we are absolutely here to explain and be transparent. This is a scary decision that we really think is the best ethical way forward. We can't live with ourselves at leaders if we don't at least try to make a difference.
From their open letter....
By Bob Leponge
Mon, 11/30/2015 - 11:58pm
This comment is about the letter itself, and not about the goal of paying the back of the house better, which I fully support. In the open letter they point out the necessity of paying the back of the house better, and then they list and dismiss anumber of possible options to close the financial gap -- cut total hours, buy vs make, switch from local suppliers to megavendors, give less to charity, etc... I think it's disingenuous that they didn't include "reduce our own profit" as one of the options. I'm not suggesting that they should necessarily do so -- they run good establishments and certainly deserve to make good money for their efforts and risk-taking. I just found the omission of that option from the list presented in the letter to be annoying.
I agree with you, Bob.
By whyaduck
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:45am
I always find it curious that "reduce our own profit" really never factors in with these folks. I guess it is a human nature thing. I am all for business' making a profit but at the expense of your employees well being is a no-go for me. (Not saying either of these establishments do this; just a general observation).
I always like to say if you can't pay your employees a living wage and reasonable benefits to cover them when they are sick and allow them some time off to recreate, then you should perhaps rethink the situation.
Reminds me why people fought
By RhoninFire
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 2:43pm
Reminds me why people fought over a goddamn supermarket and a CEO so hard. It is to be such a rare gem for an entity to choose profitability with everyone getting a decent wage (in other words, wages are people getting a fairer cut) versus maximizing profit that it almost went down (and one day may inevitably become that way) with all its typical ungenuine PR front with sleek looks and short sighted cost cuts.
I will note that I do hold sympathy if a business just don't have the money - saying if a business model can't pay their works decent wages makes the business questionable, at least in many of those cases, you can't really fault the ownership. But way too many are just choosing larger margins.
Yes. Can you imagine Good Artie doing that?
By Gross Erie
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 10:00am
What if Market Basket would add a "Fee" to fund maintaining employee wages while he paid for buying out his cousin?
In fact MB did the opposite just before their incident: took 4% OFF the bill for an entire year. An anti-fee.
RhoninFire: thanks for your
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 2:48pm
RhoninFire: thanks for your comment. I have to point out that our profit margin at both restaurants is in the middle single digits, so if our main intent all along has been to maximize profit, we've done a pretty dismal job at it. Restaurant failure rate is so high because restaurants operate on VERY thing profit margins. We're proud that almost five years in, Tres Gatos is still around, and we plan to be around for another twenty years. But we won't be able to unless we make adjustments, and what we don't want to do is stop buying from small farms, stop donating to local charities and supporting local nonprofits, and stop making our dishes from scratch.
Again, our long-term goal is not to maximize profits, it's to make sure we have a sustainable business model that allows us to treat our employees well (with job security) and to run our restaurants with integrity.
profit and wages and taking care of our employees
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 12:26pm
As I just noted in another response (we'll be doing a lot of this today, which is great, we're happy to explain ourselves), the profit margin for many restaurants is in the single digits, and the margins for our two JP restaurants are in the mid single digits. We could probably increase our profits if we bought more ingredients from mega-producers, made fewer dishes from scratch, and donated less to the community, but we don't want to go in that direction.
Needless to say, a mid single digit profit margin does not leave a lot of cushion for hard times. We would be irresponsible to our employees to reduce that margin even more in an effort to pay the kitchen team higher wages, because that would increase our vulnerability during slow times and increase the chance of failure.
We are proud of the benefits we offer our employees, and the fact that we go out of our way to help every employee with time off, and finances, when there is a family emergency, etc. We believe the small hospitality fee is the most responsible and effective way to keep our teams strong and healthy, to keep our business model sustainable, all the while remaining true to our vision of what a neighborhood restaurant should be.
The restaurant industry pay
By cscott
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 12:12am
The restaurant industry pay system has been grossly out of whack for as long I can recall, glad to see a few places starting to address it. It pretty much works like this - cooks and servers both work hard on your feet and in your face stressful jobs, but servers typically take home 5 times what a line cook makes. Part of this is because owners have long depended on cheap Latino labor, but the other half of it is people grossly over tip for average to poor service as part of some peculiar social contract. I always wished there was a kitchen tip line so I could show some love to the people who really made the meal. Ever go back to a place that had crappy food and great service?
Cheap Latino labor
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 12:40am
There's a trained, well-regarded chef in my family with solid experience and a culinary degree. He's currently working at a restaurant that's the hottest reservation in his major US city.
Actual skilled, trained chefs working in trendy restaurants aren't getting paid any more than the average entry-level administrative assistant, despite the fact that they work erratic schedules (two non-consecutive days off per week, if they're lucky), have a workday that's usually 10-12 hours long and ends so late at night that they can't have a social life beyond after-last-call bars, generally get no vacation time, often don't get benefits, and are in a work environment that leaves them exposed to risk from burns and repetitive stress injuries from standing and chopping all day.
Yes, there's tons of people using cheap immigrant labor...but the people with the specialized training aren't getting paid all that much better. I've put in significant career time being completely taken advantage of in the nonprofit sector, and chef-ing seems massively exploitive to me even in comparison to anything I've ever seen.
Skilled vs. trained
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 9:27am
I agree that being a chef may be a challenging job often underpaid but there is a serious disconnect in the restaurant world between people who aspire to be chefs and go to CIA, etc... and wrack up huge debts vs what the actual market calls for. Just because someone has gone to some culinary institute that doesn't really entitle them to a particular job or wage at a restaurant vs. some guy from Peru who also wants that job.
There was an episode of Bourdain's old TV show where he went back to his old restaurant, Les Halles, to work the line and it was pretty much all Latino guys who were not just cooking but generally running the line and doing well at it. I don't buy your theory that these guys aren't actually skilled and actually trained- they just learned on the job vs sitting around in a classroom. Specialized training is vital for say, a person running an MRI machine. Chopping vegetables, not so much.
Agreed
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 4:35pm
But I think that, ultimately, the cooks who learn by apprenticing can't break into the upper echelon of trendy restaurants and the "foodie scene" the way the ones who have the degrees and the grooming can.
It's just like any other job: you don't REALLY need a degree to do most jobs, but hiring managers won't look at you twice without it.
wrongo, cscott
By bibliotequetress
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:24pm
I've worked front & back of the house. Both are tough. However, front of the house is tougher. I cannot even begin to address why right now-- I'm on a break at work-- but suffice it to say the worst nights I ever had waiting tables stand out as some of the worst nights in my life: dealing with people who use waitstaff as lightening rods for everything shitty in their lives, or who grabbed my boobs/ass, who thought a waiter was their own personal servant, etc etc.
The worst night in the kitchen, I was in the weeds. Worst night on the floor, I was in the weeds and putting up with bullshit from patrons while smiling.
I worked in hotels and
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:47pm
I worked in hotels and kitchens from 15 til 40, in all sorts of capacities - we could compare war stories I'm sure. If you're making money as a server it's because the cooks and the barstaff are pumping out good product at a rapid pace. The difference is you walk out with more money on Saturday night than the grill cook makes all week.
That's not totally accurate
By bibliotequetress
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 11:50pm
When things go well, a server is serving "good product at a rapid pace." I worked with and in many great kitchens, but I also dealt with my share of slow, mediocre or worse cooks. If the food sucks, the chef makes the same amount, but the server is often punished with a lower tip.
When I had a table waiting 25 minutes for a cold app that was delayed in the kitchen, I either had to charm the hell out of the patron or accept that they would likely shaft my tip. On a busy night, time to charm is rare. If someone's steak was overdone, or half the entrees sat under a heat lamp congealing while the rest of the plates were still being made, or even if the food was, through no fault of the chef, simply not to someone's taste, then it could effect my tip.
The chef makes the same as he always would.
I mostly worked in mid-range, neighborhood places, though I worked high end and dives as well. I liked my work, was a very good waitress, and a consistent high seller where I worked. In a typical week, I wouldn't have a night in which I made as much as the cook or chef did for the week. It happened rarely, but that wasn't the norm. And in the better restaurants where I worked, the waitstaff made quite a bit less than the cooks/chefs-- maybe as much as the garde manger or sous chefs, but without health insurance or any other benefits.
I don't know why, but I seem to be one of the few people here who thinks the 3% kitchen charge is a good idea. I think the kitchen staff deserves it, and they should receive more money. But as I've written elsewhere under this story, having spent about 5 years working in kitchens, and about 16 years tending bar & waiting tables, in my experience waiting tables is the toughest of three tough jobs.
Then the owner should pay them
By merlinmurph
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 8:30am
Absolutely agree. And if they deserve it, then the owner can pay them.
But none of this hokey surcharge crap.
a tip for the kitchen
By DavidDoyle
Wed, 12/02/2015 - 3:30pm
cscott: thanks for your feedback. In our opinion, the days when restaurants can rely on cheap kitchen labor to sustain their profitability are winding down. In fact, in a competitive market like Boston, even restaurants with strong reputations (including paying their cooks fairly) are having a hard time hiring.
You're right, tipping is an odd (and quite flawed) social contract. Given the laws that prevent a traditional gratuity from being directed to the kitchen, we believe the admin fee is a great way to allow guests to show their appreciation to the folks who prepared their food. Thanks for your perspective.
I'll just cut my tip percentage by 3%
By Guy
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 6:19am
I normally give a 25% tip. I'm just going to reduce my tip to front of house by 3%.
guy, I'm going to refer you to my response to fairlee above...
By bibliotequetress
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:16pm
...who said the same thing.
SOLUTION
By anon
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 7:02am
First, raise prices (no separate fee BS). Then, either increase the hourly wages of the back-of-house workers, or include (non-management) back-of-house in tip pool.
Math
By FootPad
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 7:44am
Their open letter reads quite opaque to me. They should communicate what they're paying their BOH staff versus what they think their FOH staff is making. Any internal discrepancy in pay is a purely function of the business owner's choice in how to run his/her business. It sounds like the owners are doing quite well with two existing restaurants and a third about to open.
Why not come up with a fair hourly rate for all your staff, add it to your bottom-line costs for running the restaurant and adjust your menu prices accordingly? There's no rule that says you have to pay your back-end staff the lowest hourly rate you can get away. The same is true for your front end staff (and hope that tips make up for the ridiculous low rate). If your business can't operate profitably by paying for what it costs to operate then your business model is possibly broken.
I won't patronize a restaurant with forced percentage fees like this added on top of the prices. I want to be able to read a restaurant's posted menu and get a sense of what a meal there might cost for me as part of deciding whether or not to go into a restaurant. While I can do math just fine, I'd rather not have to keep a table of percentages in my head based on whatever permutation (total food cost, size of party, etc.) I represent on an evening.
A cynical person (me) might think
By UHubFan
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 11:17am
the reason they don't do the quite sensible things you suggest is because restaurants are starting to take a page out of the airline playbook -- suck people in with lower "advertised" prices and then make up the difference with a fee structure that is byzantine enough that people will just say "screw it" and pay whatever.
Will the workers even see that money?
By merlinmurph
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:07am
First, I don't even agree with this way of doing things.
Even if they implement this method of paying people, it's a sleazy way of getting money that may or may not even get to the people it's intended for. I've heard of businesses that charge "service fees" intended to be distributed to employees, but somehow, some of the money gets diverted elsewhere.
I don't trust them. Pay your help what you think you should pay them and charge for your product accordingly. If you can't make a buck, then you have a business problem.
Here. Here.
By whyaduck
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 8:44am
Right on point: "If you can't make a buck, then you have a business problem."
dupe...
By Sally
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 12:03pm
Posted twice.
Yes, absolutely.
By Sally
Tue, 12/01/2015 - 11:25am
So let's have them shut down and open a Dunkin' Donuts franchise in the spot instead.
Can we just acknowledge for a moment that running a small business--even a good, successful one--is challenging in myriad ways? I don't know ANY lazy or talentless people who are doing it but all of them to a one struggle with these questions of balancing their books, compensating their staff fairly, trying their best to provide health care, etc. It is incredibly difficult and I don't know any of these folks who are making big money--some barely break even.
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