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The Globe skewers another tourist-oriented Hub restaurant
By adamg on Tue, 08/09/2016 - 9:49pm
After slicing open the Union Oyster House, a Globe reviewer tears down Top of the Hub - in what has become the Globe style of fitting as many written amuse-bouches as possible:
I’d read enthusiastic reviews of the creme brûlée, and hoped it would turn the mood. Unfortunately, the brulée tended more eggy than creamy without a hint of vanilla, and was disappointingly runny under an anemic burnt top. I’m not sure when confectioners’ sugar was last considered a culinary flourish, considering that it comes in a $3 box at Star Market, but someone in the kitchen thought a couple shakes would look nice. Unfortunately, much of it went up my nose when I took the first bite.
When's the review of Durgin-Park?
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Comments
Ehh
Some harsh word choices, but I'd hardly say the article "tears down" Top of The Hub. The reviewer notes that the service and views are great, and returned for a relative gem of a lunch - in the end, a place that needs some work but at least has potential.
Though I do agree with a commentor on the article that generally, the NYTimes does better restaurant reviews...but what's new?
Where's MC Slim?
He usually likes to argue with reviewers and teach them how to review. I stumbled upon one of those discussions years ago and needed a nap afterwards.....
Not sure who is worse
The delusional self importance of chefs or the delusional self importance of food critics?
Being a chef
Self-important or not, is a hell of a lot more work than being a critic.
in this small town, i would
in this small town, i would also add restaurant owners, car dealership owners, and professional athletes to that list..
The Globe
Knows their readers, and the cutting edge material they enjoy reading.
I wonder what that Globe reviewer would say about the soggy ramen noodles, canned (gasp!) sardines, and Mountain Dew energy drink I just had for breakfast?
Breakfast
Unless you bought that in a restaurant, or are serving it in a restaurant, I sincerely doubt that any reviewer cares about your breakfast.
The Globe...
If an article/opinion piece is printed/published and no one reads it is it still an article/opinion piece?
Hub
The Globe can hate on the food all they want, but I like Top of the Hub, just because it's bright and I can actually hold a conversation without yelling. The acoustics/lighting in many restaurants are terrible.
A little overwritten
The review's a little overwritten, but helpful. I'd be very disappointed if I paid those prices and got that level of food quality. It's exactly the sort of place I'd taken out-of-town guests which is when a subpar fancy restaurant is particularly annoying.
I thought it was common
I thought it was common knowledge that the food at top of the hub isn't great. Its unfortunate, because the view is spectacular and they have some great live jazz
Sounds like
the reviewer had issues with the vegetables although his lunch meal seemed to please him more.
I don't know. People go to The Hub for the view, mostly, I would think, although the pricing for dinner is quite expensive and everything should be top notch, including the vegetables.
Also, not sure why the reviewer was snorting the confectioners' sugar.
can we really trust someone
can we really trust someone who can't eat creme brule without tooting the sugar off the top?
top of the hub isn't the best, but it certainly isn't bad. i'd rather go there and pay for the view than go to Abe and Louie's and get worse food with no view for the same price.
Top of The Hub is Ok
Over the years I've always been pleased with the food at The Top of the Hub. At their prices can you get a better meal at street level? Yes. You do pay extra for the view, but it is a nice special occasion place. Still, it would really be nice if they would up their game and make the food top notch.
"The other critics told me to
"The other critics told me to be mean, and you should always give in to peer pressure."
Re: Review of Union Oyster House
"The baked potato on the side will likewise never be mistaken: It’s a potato, and it has been successfully baked."
I snorted.
The Globe's recent takedowns of awful tourist traps
like Union Oyster House and now the Top of the Hub are a laudable public service, in my view. They're pretty entertainingly written reviews, to boot.
Yes, a chef's work is infinitely harder than a critic's work. But if you read Yelp, you know that some people's reviews don't even justify the cost of the ones and zeroes that went into their making. When I go on pedantically about how to write reviews, it's aimed at the worst amateurs, the kind of (usually young) idiots whose online malice and pig-ignorance about food can hurt a restaurant, especially a new one.
There are some rules around accuracy, fairness, thorough research, and other journalistic standards in professional restaurant reviewing that most Yelpers ignore. Even when I disagree with other professionals' reviews of this restaurant or that, I don't question their integrity or methods.
Bar Mezzana
I just hit your page and read the Improper Bar Mezzana review, and I quite appreciated it. (Heather is a friend of mine from HS.) I thoroughly enjoyed their Aperol spritz, fyi.
Full time Globe reviewere
Is the Globe ever going to hire a full time reviewer and go back to giving stars or is that position taken up by budget cuts? Anyone know?
I'd heard the Globe's rotation
of restaurant critics was a running live-fire tryout for the permanent position.